ICE BEAR PST150-11 Upgrades/Modifications and Troubleshooting

Hello

I am not sure if I should have started this in the upgrade/modification section or here but since I will talk about more than just upgrades I will add it here if I am wrong let me know and I will move it or if a moderator or Admin would like to move it I don't mind. I will also talk about the problems I have had and a few solutions and repair or change of parts to try and make this nice TRIKE even better...


I started this topic to talk about:
Upgrades/Modifications, Maintenance and Troubleshooting for the ICE BEAR PST150-xx

There is not much information about these TRIKES around but little by little they are getting more "fame"

I have a few videos on Youtube about my TRIKE and I will add more soon, I will include a few here but you can view all my Youtube videos at https://www.youtube.com/difuxion

Here is my First video on the ICE BEAR PST150-11:


I recently ordered a few "performance" parts from HOCA (Taiwan performance parts) for GY6 Based Scooters

Here is a list of parts that will be Upgraded/Modified:

Fuel/Air & Intake:
1. Custom Intake Tube with vac./vent 1-5/8"x9"
2. K&N Type Air Filter 1-5/8"x3"
3. HOCA Aluminum Performance Air Intake

Carbulator:
1. HOCA 28mm Performance Carb. (Butterfly Type)

Ignition:
1. OML 40ohm 10mm Coil & Cable
2. TBP performance Spark Plug

Full Synth Scooter Oil & Gear Grease:
1. AMSOIL FULL SYNTH SCOOTER OIL 10W-40
2. AMSOIL FULL SYNTH GEAR GREASE

CVT Transmition:
1. HOCA 115mm Variator
2. HOCA 115mm Variator Plate
3. HOCA 12g Roller Weights
4. Belt, Gates Kevlar - 743x20x30 POWERLINK
5. HOCA Performance Clutch (w/ blue springs 1000rpm)
6. HOCA Performance Clutch BELL
7. Main Torque Spring - Blue 1000rpm

Engine KIT:
1. HOCA CYLINDER HEAD 58.5mm
2. HOCA CYLINDER KIT w/ Piston 58.5mm
3. HOCA A11 Camshaft
4. HOCA TOP GASKET SET 58.5mm/62mm

Exhaust:
1. YOSHIMURA TRC SS 150 Full Stainless Exhaust (Originally made for People 8 150)

FYI: It is to my understanding that HOCA Performance parts are made in TAIWAN and are very good quality parts. I have been told TAIWAN Scooters and Scooter parts are some of the best around. I don't know if they are the same or better than MRP or DR. Pulley but most local distributors have HOCA parts and to get MRP or DR. Pulley parts I would have to order parts online which sometimes pay expensive shipping to PR. That is why I decided to buy HOCA parts.


Originally the ICE BEAR PST150-11 top speed was 60mph maxed out at 65mph with x1 190pound rider and top speed 50mph with x2 190punds rider+pass... maxed out at 55mph

I will report back with performance information after the upgrades are completed and a video about the upgrades/modifications...

I have had a few issues with my PST150-11 which I can see have happened to others around the web, here is a list of things I have had to replace or fix along the way. At the moment my TRIKE has 1000+miles ODO

Broken or Damaged parts between 0 and 1000miles ODO include:
1.Broken air box - the air box screw got loose and the vibration caused the airbox to break
2.Broken Chain Guard - found a tutorial on adding an extra support to the guard which seems good and I will try it
3.Exhaust came apart you can open OEM exhaust and strip (gut) it and put it back together (better Flow)
4.SCREW COME OFF - It is absolutely necesary to tighten most bolts on these TRIKES and use "LOCKTIGHT" whenever you can. Also verify them every hundred miles or so to make sure.
5.Rear differential/Tires need to be tightened which pulls back the chain, I have had to do this 2 times and will locktight those screws now (second time)
6.Seat Lock does not open unless pulled forward, had to tighten the cable from the ingnition which is not that reliable. in any case pulling the seat forward then before you open with key seems to work best...
7.Reverse is the BIGGEST issue by itself. The revers cable came loose a lot. You can locktight it but it does not work too good. But I found that if you locktight it and then add a TIEWRAP at each side to try and cover the remaining thread the screw holds in a little better.
8.Front Suspention Covers fall off, use a TIEWRAP or remove and add 3M double sided tape they originally have a cheap little peace of two sided tape that does not last very long > I already lost one side because of this...
9.Rear Fender RATTLE/Vibration - I have a video in my Youtube channel of how I fixed this issue with 3M two sided tape
10.CHEAP METAL SCREWS - Replace all the screw you can and if you can't then buy a rust proof paint and give them a touch up
11.CHEAP PAINT JOB - Metal parts are not painted very good specially the corners or welding points. I recomend a rust proof paint (black) and touch up wherever you can and if you ever take the plastic parts off to upgrade also paint all you can this will help the TRIKE last a bit longer against rusting
12.HORN BUTTON ISSUE - the Horn button seem stoped working a day or two then suddenly worked again if I get the issue agian I will take the grip apart and fix the contact of the button, I was told it was an easy task to complete ???

NOTE: I have not had problems with fuel lines or filter, Rear Brake Pads did get wasted pretty soon.
***Fuel Economy was supposed to be from 65 to 80 mpg, I fill the tank and use it for 4 to 5 days before I have to refuel and travel long trips***

Here are a few PIC's of my TRIKE:

Engine Oil and Gear oil information:

I have been told Engine Oil and Gear oil should be changed at 500miles for break-in then at 1000miles and after that every 2000miles

I don't know how true that is but the dealeship mechanic was the one who said it...

From what the instruction manuall says and what I have gathered online I will change both every 1000miles with Full Synth from AMSOIL

I have some videos about this I will upload soon



AMSOIL FULL SYNTH ENGINE OIL:


When I change engine oil I use the normal Process:
1.remove oil pan screw empty engine oil
2.use the "kick starter" with the kill button so it does not start just turns the engine
3.clean the filter or replace if necesary
4.put the filter and screw back together and put them back in place
5.fill with engine oil until the oil reaches the dipstick XXXX mark



AMSOIL FULL SYNTH GEAR OIL (Marine Grade):



When I change the gear lube I don't use the screw under the Sproket:
1. remove the gear oil empty screw, which is located under the clutch area
2.allow the grease to empty
3.put back the screw
4.reach the vent hose on top of the clutch area and pull it out
5.here there are 2 options:

a.use the exact amount of gear lube and throw it down the hose, then put the hose back in place
-or-
b.fill the hose with lube until it is full them point the hose down to empty excess oil, then put the hose back in place



I use option 5.B which is what the dealer mechanic told me to do and have not had an issue yet

Here is a pic that can help find the hose I am talking about:

GATES - KEVLAR POWERLINK BELT 743x20x30:


Main Torque Spring - Blue Spring (1000rpm):


Clutch small springs - Blue (1000rpm):


HOCA A11 Cameshaft:


TBP Spark Plug:


Engine Upgrade Parts:



HOCA Performance - CYLINDER HEAD KIT 58.5mm:




HOCA Performance - CYLINDER KIT w/ PISTON 58.5mm:

UPDATE---------------UPDATE---------------UPDATE---------------UPDATE---------------UPDATE


**************************************************************************
I am expecting to have everything setup and tuned by next month
After waranty expires - July/20/2010
let's see what happens I already have all the CVT, Engine parts and Carb. I am just waiting on the Exhaust to arrive.

I will start build up very soon


**************************************************************************
July/03/2010 Had an accident with my TRIKE (read updated post for info)
Everything is installed and ready to use, but I will have to wait to heal before I can use it and give it a test myself. Everything seems to be working and I will start uploading pic's and videos...
Check in once in a while and check them out


FUEL---------------FUEL---------------FUEL---------------FUEL---------------FUEL---------------FUEL

28mm Carbulator (OEM Type "butterfly")


This is the OEM Fuel Filter:


This is a Replacment I will use until I find a better option:



I am told there is a better fuel filter and I will check on this today... I will update soon with more information


July/3/2010 Got a better fuel filter from Autozone. Usually used for cars with CARB but it works great on scooter also. It is washable and they sell replacment parts just in case
Works great, will upload pic's later if posible...


EXHAUST---------------EXHAUST---------------EXHAUST---------------EXHAUST---------------EXHAUST

As mentioned the OEM Exhaust is not very good with time it comes apart like a cheap toy > check the next pic to have an idea:


Yoshimura Exhaust Seller has a lot of details on the Exhaust but not the size
I think we can make it fit, I have seen in on a scooter and it looks the part...

The Exhaust goes for about $300
It can be found on EBAY
I got mine from EBAY seller deals4twowheels which also has a website:
www.deals4twowheels.com

Here is some more information on the Exhaust:
http://www.yoshimura-rd.com/images/product/pdf/1590075.pdf

Yoshimura TRC SS Exhaust (Originally for Kymco Super8 150cc)






Here is Even more info on the Exhaust:

•Scoot in style with Yoshimura
•Exhaust system adds performance and style
•Feature stainless steel header, stainless steel mini-TRC muffler sleeve and stainless steel end cap


NOTE: Installation of a new exhaust system may change your motorcycles fuel-air mixture requirements. Please consult the exhaust manufacturer directly with questions regarding any modifications that need to be made during, or after, installing their product. If a jet kit or fuel processor is recommended, see the Intake/Fuel section

Exhaust discoloration (blueing) is caused by engine conditions such as cam timing, fuel-air mixture, operating temperature, etc. It is not the result of defective manufacturing; therefore it is not a covered by any warranty. See the Chems/Lubes section for products to help remove or prevent exhaust discoloration.

•Finish: Stainless Steel
•Style: Canister Muffler
•Type: 1-Into-1 System
•Units: Each

Here it is FINALLY installed and working PERFECTLY:

Exhaust Install NOTES:
*used Chromoly tube 1-1/4"
*ported exhaust in-port to 1-1/4" (about the size of the port on the new engine kit)
*left the Yoshimura silencer in place, souds great and is not too loud (check the video)

LIKE WHAT YOU SEE?? WANT TO HEAR IT OUT???
Check out this video



BRAKES---------------BRAKES---------------BRAKES---------------BRAKES---------------BRAKES

I am replacing the REAR BRAKE PADS already, I don't know why rear pads got wasted so fast, front pads are still new. I brake with both front and back at the same time so I would expect the rear pads to last a bit more, but anyways I am searching the web since they are some wierd pads which are hard to find. I wanted to change the CALIPER but it seems I can't do it so I will need the OEM or replacment pads...

I have some info on the pads that should help anyone who needs pads find them quickly (I did all the research already

Here is the information I have found out about the pads:

The rear pads are by the book number: FA395

The pads are from ATV and fit Artic CAT 250/300/400/500/650 and Polaris Hawkeye 300

ICEBEAR PST 150-xx Rear BRAKE PADS are COMPATIBLE WITH:



Description / Reviews:

FRONT FITMENT:
Polaris Hawkeye's
250cc-Big Boss, Trail Boss, Trail Blazer Xploror 2x4 & 4x4
300cc-Sportsmen Big Boss, Xpress 2x4 & 4x4
325cc-Magnum, Trail Boss, Xpedition 2x4 & 4x4
330cc-ATP, Magnum, Trail Boss, Trail Blazer 2x4 & 4x4
335cc-Sportsmen, Worker 2x4 & 4x4
350cc-350L, Sportsmen, Trail Boss 2x4 & 4x4
400cc-400L, Sport 400, Big Boss, Scrambler 2x4 & 4x4
425cc-Magnum, Xpedition 2x4 & 4x4
450cc-Sportsman 2x4 & 4x4
500cc-Sportsmen, Scrambler, ATP, Big Boss, Magnum, Outlaw, Predator 2X4 & 4X4
600cc-Sportsmen 2x4 & 4x4
700cc-Sportsmen, EFT, X2 2x4 & 4x4
800cc-Sportsmen, Touring 2x4 & 4x4


REAR FITMENT:
300cc- Sportsman 08-9
330cc-04-5 ATP 04-5
450cc-Outlaw MXR 450S 08
500cc-Outlaw 06, Predator 03-7, ATP 04-5
500cc-Sportsman 500 Touring, X2, EFI 08-9
525cc-Outlaw 525 IRS 08
700cc-Sportsman 700 X2 08
800cc- Ranger RZR Razor 08-+, Sportsman 800 X2, EFI, Touring



Here is the Juice


EBC is a mid class Brake Fluid there are cheaper and there are better but this works just fine. Any DOT4 Brake fluid should do the job just make sure the level is always correct... ;D

More videos from my Youtube Channel:

This video is a small review on the TRIKE and top speed stock:




This video is to fix the rear fender rattle:

Remember to always "LUBE" :-[
These Chains are not very good quality and even with lube get rusted...


I find the spray lube to work best for me since I don't want to spend a lot of time with this. I just spay and keep going.

I believe you should use this once a week and specially after long trips.

They where kind enough to give the instructions in the back...


just take a few seconds and spay the chain using as much as you need to get the chain look "lubed"

OK I took the TRIKE apart and started painting all welding points and wherever I could reach...

I used a small 8oz of RUST-OLEUM black paint:


I will update this post with the results tomorow when it dries
the frame looks very nice and I gave it a nice thick coat of paint

These chinese bikes use poor quality metal and it can rust real quick so doing this will help the life of the frame which in turn let's the TRIKE last a bit more than just leaving it to rust


Pictures of results will be added here:
!!!

Also removed all the black tape used to attach some part from manufacturer and replaced them with tight-wraps. Gave a touch up to parts of the fuel tank while I was there I will replace the fuel filter with a clear washable filter if I can find one since I am already there.

The hoses on these trikes seems to be of good quality so I will not replace those

if you do this "paint touch-up" you should cover the parts you dont want the paint to fall to or be very carefull

It is not hard to remove the plastics but keep in mind they have an order you will need to follow which is what takes more time than actually doing whatever you need to do. But once you do it the first time it's easy to do again

I will do a quick overview of what I remember of removing mine:

1. rear under the tail lights


2. fuel tank cover


3. pasanger seat



4. tail light and side panels



5. on the front seat there is a part to remove also


6. to remove the front seat you will need to remove the screws from the front side panels where the fuel cover was, no need to remove them just split them apart when you remove the seat.

I hope this gives you an idea and helps if you would ever want to remove these parts

NOTICE:
If you just want to get to the Engine it is easier to remove the rear AXEL and take it out, if you want to paint the frame you will need to take the plastics off

Here are some photos after paint job, it was dark so the pic's are not that good but still it looks nice and shiny

Had a small accident on my TRIKE
Got a 6mm cut to my right hand, Broke a bone in my right hand and got a few scratches here and there

thank GOD nothing "REAL BAD" I should be OK in a month or two :p
Toltal: 18 stiches

Remember boyz and girlz always wear your safety gear
Gloves, Helmet and Jacket are among the most important.
Thank GOD I had my gear on

I was able to complete the upgrades even if I can't ride for a while :p and now I will have to do some repairs to the TRIKE but I will work hard to have things working again as soon as I can.

I will contact ICEBEAR to see if I buy the parts I broke (plastics) and I bent a rear wheel hub which I will also try to get, front seems to be damaged also might have bent the fork or suspension. I got to check on that later on if I can repair or if I should replace...
I bent front and right rear rim's which I will also replace if posible.

broke a mirror which I replaced:


Went with a style I liked more than the OEM mirror

For now the maintenance and upgrades where completed succesfully and all parts are working in the engine and exhaust.
I updated the exhaust section with new pics and will upload pic's of the engine upgrade soon...

Look back in the Thread for the pic's I uploaded today

ENGINE UPGRADES----------------------ENGINE UPGRADES----------------------ENGINE UPGRADES----------------------ENGINE UPGRADES

Here are some pic's taken during the Engine part replacment steps. I have a few videos that I will upload later on.


28mm Carb and OEM (plastic) intake. I am looking for a aluminum intake that fits after the upgrades, I will update when I find it

Custom Intake - simple stainless tube with tie-wrap to frame



A few parts where placed with black (electric) tape from manufacturer. All of which where replaced by tie-wraps






You can see a small diference in size on fuel and exhaust ports
This was a 58mm Bore Kit (Basically all just "Bolt-On")

Exhaust was ported further after this pic was taken so it was a little bigger and was also sanded to a smooth surface (or semi-smooth) ;D



Fuel port was also ported and sanded to a smooth surface (or semi-smooth) before installed.
We also had to make a custom gasket after porting



Videos will be uploaded soon

IGNITION----------------------IGNITION----------------------IGNITION----------------------IGNITION----------------------IGNITION

Here are some pic's of the ignition upgrade parts:


TBP Spark Plug


OML Coil and wire (10mm / 40ohm):




CDI is still stock
I did not have good results with the CDI I had at hand, maybe in the future I will try a unrestricted and advanced timing CDI... ???